Grocery Shopping List Power -- Step 1 In Saving Grocery Money

A grocery shopping list can be the front line tool you use in saving money on your grocery budget each month. There are several more sophisticated ways to save grocery money, but none is easier or faster to implement than the lowly grocery shopping list. Interestingly, this is a tool that almost everyone knows about, yet very few people actually use it in a systematic and reliable way. For those folks who are not convinced of a grocery list's potential power in household management, here's what happens when you DON'T use one. -- You lose money.

Without a grocery shopping list, a shopper is at the mercy of "what looks good" in a grocery store. Believe me, if you shop this way, you WILL find something that looks irresistible. And costs more than you might have spent with a list. Why? Simple. It is the grocery stores' job to entice you to spend money in their stores. That's how they stay in business. There's no problem with that. But it's YOUR business to get the best value for your money...unless you don't care how much you spend on your groceries each month. In which case you probably wouldn't be reading an article like this one. -- You lose time. Using a grocery shopping list means you can enter your favorite grocery store, fly up and down the aisles one time, and be ready to check out in the fraction of time of another shopper who uses the 'browse' method of grocery shopping. And if you're under the mistaken impression that you'll need to spend lots of upfront time figuring out what to put on your grocery list, well, you don't. Hang your grocery list in a prominent place in your kitchen and train your family to use it. Then your list will be ready to go shopping when you are.

-- You lose nutrition. Using a grocery shopping list means you get EXACTLY what you want at the store; and that includes the nutrition you want for your family. You call the shots on how much fat, salt and sugar your family consumes. You can decide to emphasize whole grains and whether raw vegetables, frozen or canned will grace your family's dinner table. In short, with a grocery list, you are in control.

-- You lose efficiency. Ever stand in your grocery store and think to yourself, "well, I know I need some frozen veggies (or broth, or canned fruits, or favorite mixes, etc.) to keep on hand for that easy throw-together recipe my family likes. But I can't remember what I already have at home. I'll just get a couple of bags of SOMETHING to keep on hand." Fast forward to the night you want to actually COOK that wonderful food for your family. You discover you've got two bags of frozen broccoli and three bags of frozen stir-fry veggies, but what you NEED is a bag of frozen corn. A grocery shopping list could have helped you bring home the corn. Without the extra stir-fry. Using a grocery list means you have what you actually need in your pantry when you need it. Plus, you'll end up with less throw-away food, too, since you're purchasing what you know your family will eat within a given period of time.

Bottom line, if you're serious about saving money at the grocery store, the first thing you'll want to use is a grocery shopping list. It's easy and you can start using one today. (For a free printable grocery shopping list, see the author's resource box at the end of this article.) Whether you're a college student learning how to grocery shop for the first time, a newly married couple establishing a budget, or a mom whose family has grown and the grocery budget has developed a mind of its own, the place to start to regain control is the lowly grocery shopping list.
About The Author
Colleen Langenfeld has been parenting for over 26 years and helps other moms enjoy mothering more at http://www.paintedgold.com. Get your free printable grocery shopping list at http://www.paintedgold.com/Organize/grocery-shopping-list.html.

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Downsizing for Seniors by: Marilyn Bohn

Downsizing can be a tough process for anyone, but especially for seniors who find themselves with large homes and no longer have children at home to fill up the rooms. More and more are tackling the huge job of downsizing their living spaces. In fact, about six percent of Americans between the ages of 55 and 64 move each year, according to the Over-50 Council of the National Association of Home Builders. There are several reasons seniors want or need to downsize. They could be planning a move to assisted living, moving into a smaller, more manageable home or living out of a motor home so they can travel more. I offer the following tips for seniors taking the plunge into a more simplified lifestyle.

• Get Rid of the guilt factor---Many feel they are the "keepers" of their family heirlooms and have a hard time getting rid of items which they no longer have room. This is the number one reason seniors have a hard time downsizing. Look for other family members who would like to have some of these items now. Especially if they are just being stored and not used. This way the person they really want to have them will for sure be the one to inherit the item. And the joy that brings to the recipient can be enjoyed by the giver.

• If family members do not want the items because of their own space limitations or for other reasons consider donating the items to a charity. Or there are consignment shops in most large cities where items can be sold with a percentage of the cost going to the shop. Or items can be sold through eBay, Craig's list and other places on the internet.

• Paring down items before the move makes the process easier at moving time. It not only saves space but it saves time and money.

• Find movers specializing in senior needs---Moving is stressful for everyone, but some moving companies specialize in making the transition easier for seniors so it is worth the time to fine a 'mover match'. There are moving companies with senior-friendly services, such as hanging items on the walls for clients unable to do so themselves, handling the change of address and utilities, setting up electronics at a new home, and much more.

• Reassess every five to ten years---As seniors get older, modern appliances or high shelving can become more difficult to use or simply unnecessary considering their lifestyle. By evaluating and reassessing needs every five to ten years helps in two ways. It helps to avoid collecting clutter and keeping things no longer needed. It also assures that the home or space is still working for their lifestyle.

• Everyday activities and household chores can be made easier---This can be a simple process by adjusting the setup in their homes. Keep two to three sets of dinnerware where it is easy to reach instead of keeping everything in out-of-reach cabinetry. Everyday activities and household chores can be made easier just by adjusting the setup in their homes.
About The Author
Marilyn Bohn's Bio Marilyn is a creative organizer who has been organizing for over 20 years. She is a member of the National Association of Professional Organizers and is working towards becoming a Certified Professional Organizer. Professionally she has been organizing homes and offices for over two years. She holds a bachelors degree in Social Work. She has reared five daughters and currently lives in Utah. Go to her website http://www.marilynbohn.com where you can find free organizing tips, interesting blogs and more helpful articles on organizing.

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Keeping Your Home Maintained Saves You Money In The Longrun

Everyone that buys a house for the first time goes through the same learning curve. There are a hundreds of aspects of your house that require regular maintenance and upkeep, but unfortunately there isn’t a manual that I am aware of that will tell you everything you need to know. Here are some common areas of the house that need regular attention and ideas to fix these issues. Some may seem simple but even the easiest things need some sort of solution. You might need everything on this list or you may only need one, but it is all important stuff to know. Doors take a constant beating from repeatedly opening and closing them multiple times each day. These entry way doors evenutally need adjustment. Doors hinges will eventually move because of wear and tear and also because of expansion in warmer months. Be aware of the hinges and the movement of the screws that are in the hinges. From time to time these need to be adjusted, otherwise your door will start to sag or stick. Keeping up on this will prevent future problems.
Window sometimes become difficult to close. Make sure no debris has lodged into a window opening and make sure the windows are still on track. Trying to force a window is never a good idea. By making sure the rubber seals around the windows are in good shape can be the difference between losing hundreds of dollars in heating and cooling expenses.

Crack sealing – Houses settle and each year there are always new cracks. They have to be caulked or filled properly to avoid drafts and further expansion. It is always a good idea to do a seasonal inspection of your foundation to identify any cracks or potential problem areas. It can prevent water from getting into the problem area. A filled crevice will prevent unwanted insects (or worse) from gaining access to your house.

Regular drain maintenance is a must. Hair builds up in bathroom sinks and food residue sticks into the kitchen drain. Either clean with a wire brush, or by opening the pipes (with a pipe wrench) or get some sort of “draino” to keep that water flowing.

Check on your Bathroom Sink Stopper – this is a common part of the sink drain that comes apart. I see this in many homes, it is an easy fix, but you got to have some patience. Look under the sink and see if it is connected properly. If so you should have little problems.

Recaulking the bathroom shower tub and removing mold with bleach, is a great way to prevent sickness and clean up the look of your tub. Scrape off the old caulk and apply fresh new caulk that is specially designed for the shower and bath. It is easy to do and will make your bath look newer. Make sure to spray with bleach and keep the area ventilated while you do this job.

Save paint from any paint job. You never know when you need touch up paint around the house. If you do not have the saved paint, you can take a chip of the used paint to a good paint store. Any Sherwin-Williams store should be able to match the paint by taking a small piece.

Finally make sure to check light fixtures, outlets and thermostats. All these things need a regular “once over” to ensure proper service. If all these things are done, you will have a better understanding of your houses needs and will prevent future problems.

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Save on Home Cleaning Products by: Sarah Russell

Although your mother always said that cleanliness is next to godliness, she never mentioned how expensive it would be. If you listen to advertisements today, you know that you need separate cleaners for your kitchen counters, bathroom counters, mirrors, windows and so on. And at $3-7 for each bottle, the costs of being clean add up quickly. But you can save money by making your own household cleaners with these easy recipes. In addition to being expensive, commercial household cleaners can be dangerous. According to the EPA, many of the products we frequently use contain harmful toxins such as chlorine, ammonia, and formaldehyde. These chemicals may cause a variety of health problems, from lung and skin irritation to endocrine disruption and possibly even cancer in the case of formaldehyde (commonly as a glue and preservative). In all cases, our bodies are not equipped to neutralize the toxic chemicals which may seep into the air from these products, leading to health problems over time. You can save your money and your health by making your own cleaners using products commonly found in the kitchen. Try out some of the following recipes:

* All-Purpose Cleaner: To create a basic all-purpose cleaner, warm one pint of water and stir in two tablespoons of baking soda. Add a splash of lemon juice or vinegar to help cut through grease. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and use it as you would any commercial cleaner.

* Glass Cleaner: Mix one cup of white vinegar with one cup of distilled water and spray on windows using a spray bottle. Wipe down the glass using old newspapers for the best streak-free finish.

* Oven Cleaner: Mix one part white vinegar to four parts water and spray onto your oven. Let it set for several minutes to penetrate the grease and gunk before wiping away. You can also use baking soda to scrub through the tough parts.

* Drain Cleaner: Pour one-quarter cup baking soda down a clogged drain and follow with one-half cup of vinegar. Carefully cover the drain tightly and wait for hissing to stop, then rinse the drain well with hot water. Be careful when using this recipe – baking soda and vinegar are highly reactive together!

* Air Freshener: To eliminate odors, sprinkle plain baking soda in trash cans, kitty litter boxes and other stinky places. House plants can also help absorb odors as they take in oxygen from the environment. Purchase potpourri from a craft store to give your home a fresh scent that lasts longer than spray air freshener. You may find that a stronger concoction works for you. Experiment with the proportions of each cleaner until you find the concentration that works best for you. For more recipes and information on alternative cleaning methods, visit http://www.home-safe-home.org.
About The Author
Sarah Russell, aka "The Sexy Secretary," is a connoisseur of living the good life on a budget. Check out her website at http://www.thesexysecretary.com for more fabulous ideas on how to trim down your expenses without reducing your quality of life.

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Stop Wasting Money On Higher Cooling Bills! by: Liz Pauley

If you could put more money in your pocket, this summer, would you? Well, you can, by lowering your cooling bill. Chances are, it's higher than it needs to be. You'll be surprised at what you can save. No sacrifice required. Check out these quick and easy maintenance tips that can put you on your way to lower bills in no time. Quick Facts About Your Central AC Your central air conditioning (AC) system circulates cool air through your house through supply and return ducts (often the same ducts used for heat in the winter). A typical central AC system has an evaporator, condenser and compressor in a single cabinet located outside the house (usually on a concrete slab right next to it), or alternately, a condenser and compressor outside and an evaporator in a separate cabinet, inside (usually in the basement or crawl space). Both systems have a blower that forces indoor air through the coil of the evaporator where it's cooled, dehumidified, and sent through the ductwork into the house. The heat collected by the evaporator is transferred to the condenser (outside) to dissipate. Change the Air Filter This is the most important thing you can do to help keep your system working at peak efficiency. The air moving across the evaporator is cleaned before it gets there by a filter located in the return air duct (usually within easy reach in a wall or ceiling, or at the air conditioner itself). Filters get dirty and clogged through regular use; the dirtier they get, the less air gets through the system. The dirty air that gets through is carried right to the evaporator. Dirt sticking to the evaporator coil further impedes air flow, reduces the evaporator's ability to absorb heat and can reduce your system's efficiency by as much as 10 percent. Not to mention, that dirty air is circulated right back through your house. Air filters are made by a number of manufacturers and come in a variety of types and efficiencies. * Most residential systems use 1-inch or 2-inch flat or pleated fiberglass "throwaway" filters (thicker filters may hold more dust but are not necessarily more efficient). * There are also "permanent" type filters: mesh, electrostatic and electronic, some with pre-filters that collect larger dust particles. * If you or a family member suffers with allergies or sensitivity to dust or other particulates (i.e., tobacco smoke, pollen or pet dander), consider using a High Efficiency Particulate Air Filter, also known as a HEPA filter. These are specially constructed filters that allow a high volume of air to pass through them while stopping even very tiny particles. * If you have any question about the right filter for your system, don't guess; check with a professional service technician. Whatever type of air filter you use, inspect it and either clean it or replace it about once a month during peak cooling season or more often if you're living in dusty conditions or with pets. Never run your system without the filter in place. Clean Evaporator Coils and Fins Even if you regularly change your air filter, dirt will still accumulate on the evaporator over time. Check your evaporator coils at least once a year and clean them if necessary, using a vacuum cleaner with brush attachment, careful not to bend the fins. Clean Condenser Coils and Fins Condenser coils and fins (outside) are also vulnerable to dirt - from debris and leaves falling from trees, cut grass kicked up by the lawnmower, and lint from a nearby dryer vent - so, check the condenser unit at the beginning of the cooling season. Cut the power to the unit and use the following checklist:

* Gently remove any debris from top and sides.

* Sweep the concrete pad.

* Prune back any overhanging leaves (2 feet is the minimum recommended clearance; 5 feet overhead).

* Use a soft brush to sweep the fins.

* (Optional) Spray the fins with a gentle household cleaner; let it sit for 5 minutes, then gently hose them down pointing the spray into the interior through the fan opening.

* Keep the unit free of dirt and debris throughout the season. * If you can shade your unit (without blocking airflow), even better: the shaded air around your system will be cooler, and a properly shaded system can operate up to 10 percent more efficiently over the course of the season. Keeping your evaporator and condenser coils free of dirt and debris can improve your system's performance by as much as 10 percent. Just be careful with those fins. They're a little fragile and easily bent. It's best to use a special tool called a fin comb to straighten them. Those are available through your local home center or online. Be sure to buy the correct comb for the number of fins per inch your unit has. Other Simple Steps to Savings

* Anything that obstructs the flow of air through your system reduces its efficiency and drives up your bill -- keep your registers clear of furniture, drapes and other obstructions.

* Keep all exterior doors and windows closed when operating the system.

* Raise your temperature setting. Raising the setting even 1 degree can lower your bill by as much as 9 percent over the course of the season.

* Keep your system set on "AUTO" and let your thermostat do its job. If you find you need to run the fan constantly to keep cool, it's time to call a technician.

* Set your system to recirculate the indoor air (if you have the option) rather than drawing outside air. Conditioning the warmer outside air takes far more energy than simply recirculating the already conditioned household air. * A little money spent could equal a lot of money saved: have a qualified service technician check your system at least once a year. The technician will measure your refrigerant to see if it needs recharging, inspect your coils, measure air flow over the cooling coil, and will do a thorough inspection of the motor, compressor, air handler, and ducts (and of course, the air filter). The technician can spot potentially costly problems early or help you avoid them entirely. For Owners of Older Houses If you're still using a central air conditioning system manufactured during the 1970s, you're likely using 30-50 percent more energy than a more recently manufactured unit would use. Even if your unit is only ten years old, replacing it with a new, more efficient unit can save you 20-40 percent in cooling costs. Over the life of the unit, that's considerable savings, especially with energy costs continuing to rise.
About The Author
Liz Pauley is a staff writer for http://ranchrevival.com at http://www.ranchrevival.com, a website devoted to owners of ranch style houses, old and new.

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When You Don’t Need To Call A Plumber

Don’t get me wrong. A good professional plumber is worth his/her weight in gold when you have a serious problem with your plumbing system. Over the years I’ve had to make that call and I’ve been more than satisfied with the quick response and competent work that has been done. The only thing that hurt a bit was the bottom line when I wrote out the check.

It’s interesting that topics such as this are not a part of the typical high school curriculum. As a former educator, I’ve always believed that the education of our young people should include a number of levels of learning including how to get along in the real world of home owning, etc. Granted, many secondary schools offer a fine curriculum in areas such as auto mechanics, woodworking, etc. but they really fall short in teaching about the everyday problems people come face to face with as adults.

Enough of the soapbox lecture.

The purpose of this brief article is to cover some of the basics involved in taking care of routine plumbing problems that eventually all of us will have to face. Of all the systems in the home, I hate dealing with plumbing the most! Many repairs need to be completed before your dry run (excuse the pun) can be run to see if the problem is fixed. If it’s not, you usually have to start all over again, which is frustrating to say the least.

One of the most common household plumbing problems is the stopped-up toilet. We recently moved to a new home and were having a lot of problems with toilet stoppage. We hadn’t changed our diet so we ruled that out as the cause and tried figuring out what the real problem was. Well, with a little help from the builder we found out that this newer toiled required you to hold the handle down a little longer to get a complete flush. You would think that there would be some kind of warning label or something that would clue you into this, but no. The problem went away after we followed his advise. Easy fix.

Traditional plungers have been upgraded to configurations that will get the job done quicker and easier. There is a plunger called “power plunger”. Ask for it by name at your local hardware store or home center. Chances are that it may be marketed under a different name. Make sure that the salesperson knows that the item is, in fact, what is typically called a “power plunger”. This plunger is effective in clearing clogs from toilets, sinks and bathtubs. If your kitchen sink is clogged and is connected to a dishwasher, be sure to clamp-off the dishwasher hose so that the plunger will work completely on the drainpipe rather than having some of its pressure diverted (uselessly) to the dishwasher. When the clog is cleared don’t forget to remove the clamp from the dishwasher hose or you will have some unpleasant consequences when you do wash the next load of dishes.

I’m not a big fan of liquid drain cleaners. I’ve found that they usually don’t get the job done (although some people will beg to differ). If you elect to use a chemical drain opener, be sure that it doesn’t have chemicals that may damage your piping (read the label on the box or bottle). Also, most of these chemical cleaners will wreak havoc if they touch exposed skin so, if you choose to try them, be sure to wear protective gloves and a long sleeved shirt and wash your hands thoroughly when your finished. If you don’t use the entire bottle, make sure it’s stored in a safe place where children can’t get to it. Most of the cleaners include chemicals that are so toxic that death may result if they’re ingested. There are some liquid drain cleaners that are “earth friendly” and are less hazardous to use. I’m not sure that they “pack the punch” that more tradition liquid drain cleaners do but I’m not an expert by any means in this area.

OK, you’ve tried a “power plunger” and even some liquid drain openers but the drain remains clogged. What’s next? Your best bet is to buy a small hand auger. Using the auger is simple. Push it into the drain until you reach resistance and then close the thumbscrew auger lock with about a foot of the auger extending from the drain opening. Turn the auger handle clockwise and you will hopefully move it past the bend in the pipe (where the clog may be). If the drain is still clogged, loosen the lock and repeat the process. Eventually, the clog should be forced down the drainpipe and the problem will be solved. If you suspect that there is an object that is clogging the drain, turn the auger counterclockwise to remove it.

If all else fails and you have access to the plumbing beneath the clogged unit, you can try to remove the trap, etc. to see if this helps locate the clog. Be sure to use a cloth to protect the metal before you try to loosen the joint to avoid damage.

No joy? Call a plumber.

The longer you live in your abode, the greater the chances that the seals under the pop up stoppers in the sink and bathtub may begin to leak so that the water drains before you’re ready for it to drain. A replacement stopper is your best bet for the bathtub. The fresh seal should take care of the problem. The sink, on the other hand can be easily fixed in just a few minutes. Inside the cabinet there’s a rod that protrudes from the drainpipe. This is called a lift rod. This rod passes through a horizontal piece of metal called the clevis strap and is fixed in place with a spring clip. Sometimes the clip has become loose and the lift rod is no longer running through the hole in the clevis strap. Make sure to force the clamp downward to increase its holding power then run the lift rod back through the clevis strap and slide the clip back on. If this solves the problem, you’re finished. Sometimes the seal in the stopper has become worn and needs a little more downward pressure to make a watertight seal. Look at the top of the clevis strap for a thumbscrew and after loosing it, move it upwards a bit (usually a half inch will suffice). Tighten the screw and your problems should be over.

About The Author

Chuck Lunsford is the content manager for http://www.lightnbreezy.com/, a well-known source for home improvement lighting and ceiling fixtures. If you have more questions about other home repair topics visit us at plumbing repairs and maintenance for the do-it-yourselfer.

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You Own A Wood Burning Stove - Is It Dangerous for Your Health?

by: Paul Zayer

Do you have a wood burning stove? I don't know if you have noticed but many people have one nowadays. When the cold season arrives, it is sure nice to have a wood burning stove. I can tell you that. When I look at a wood burning stove in a magazine or in a store it brings back a lot of nice memories. I just loved the smell and the nice heat our old wood burning stove was giving us in the kitchen in the cold season. It may seem odd in this day in high tech, but wood burning stoves are getting more popular than they have been in almost a century. Many persons would suppose that a wood burning oven was almost the least practical article that you could install in your residence. After all, there are so many disadvantage to a wood burning stove. First of all, there is not the same sort of fine temperature control as with a gas heater. Wood burning stoves, basically, are either on or off. When they are on, you constantly have to stock them with wood. When they are off, they take many hours to heat up again. Nonetheless, the wood burning stove has a lot going for it. First of all, wood burning ovens are versatile. Not only can you use them to heat a room, you can also use them to dry clothes, and warm cold feet. You can even bake certain things on some wood burning stoves! There is also the matter of the cost of heating. Wood burning stoves was thought of as not practical because of the amount of work that goes into using them. Today, however, they make a lot of sense. They burn wood very slowly, and in many areas fire wood is accessible at no cost. Hundreds and hundreds of dollars can be saved every winter if you have a wood burning stove. For many families, that is no laughing matter. But there are risks associated to wood burning stoves. Although they are not difficult to maintain, they have dangers that regular gas furnaces don't have. Wood burning stoves must be located in the middle of your common space. That means that if you have young kids, they are at risk. If they run into the wood burning stoves, they can burn themselves! Also, a lot of persons say that wood burning stoves have much greater emissions than other sort of heat. Even oil burning furnaces - infamous for the air pollution they make - are supposed to be healthier for you than wood stoves. If your wood burning stove is not adequately insulated from the residence, it can liberate hazardous indoor pollution and poison you and your family. Nonetheless, even with all of these drawbacks, wood burning stoves make sense. They enjoy a renaissance among environmentally aware persons. They are more efficient now and they also let you survive with less outside dependence on our decreasing natural gas supply. So next time you look at a wood burning stove, why not get in the store and have a closer look at it? I am sure that you will love it.
About The Author
Paul Zayer is an Internet lover and really likes sharing information with other people. You can discover more about home improvement and wood burning stove reviews at his web site http://www.homeimprovementcenteronline.com

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How To Avoid 5 Costly Mistakes With Your Air Conditioning System

By: Dave Johnson

We all know that air conditioning systems are expensive to buy and install. You’ve worked hard to earn the money for your heating and conditioning unit. So it makes sense to look after it as well as possible to reduce any repair costs. You don’t want to have to spend lots more money on repairs or, even worse, on having to replace it.

Costly mistake No 1 – You Have High Repair Bills The best way to avoid costly problems is to have your equipment serviced regularly by a qualified air conditioning contractor or service engineer. A good engineer will be able to undertake a series of tests to keep your system and ductwork up to scratch. It’s recommended that you have a service done twice a year, in the spring and the fall. Do you know the US Department of Energy has a 9-point plan for air conditioning servicing? You can get full details from a free report on air conditioning servicing. When you have a service you need to make sure that the technician cleans the ventilation system filters or better still, replaces them. They can become clogged which reduces the volume and quality of the air flow.

Costly Mistake No. 2 You Spend Too Much On Electricity Air conditioning and heating systems consume electricity. Period. And the bills can get pretty high too if you aren’t careful. So how can you minimize your power costs. The easiest way to keep down your power costs is to ensure the efficient running of your HVAC unit. You need to keep the compressor (condenser) which is the box outside the house, as clean as possible. This will prevent it from overheating or getting unwanted debris in the unit. You should also make sure the system is optimally set for your home. Again, your technician or service contractor will be able to do this for you.

Costly Mistake No. 3 Reduced System Life Like any other form of mechanical equipment, your air conditioner will last longer if it is properly serviced. All mechanical parts need to be monitored and cleaned from time-to-time. The filters of your system will get clogged with dirt and other particulates. It’s inevitable. It’s just part of the operating process. If you don’t have the filters cleaned and the ductwork maintained, then you are putting the whole unit at risk. So when you have a service, make sure that your technician cleans the ventilation system filters or better still, replaces them.

Costly Mistake No. 4 Reduced performance If the filters become clogged it will reduce the volume and quality of the air flow into your home. If you notice that the temperature starts to go up or that the system is pumping out hot air then you know that your filters are clogged. Not only does this reduce the comfort of your home but it also becomes more expensive in operating costs and could also lead to the unit prematurely failing.

Costly Mistake No. 5 Risking damage to your health There are many stories about dangers to your health from air conditioners but the truth is that if you have your system maintained regularly then it is quite safe. However, if you allow the filters to become blocked or the ducts to be dirty then you are creating a breeding ground for mold and bacteria which is then spread throughout the building. So, with all of the common mistakes, the solution is simple – proper and regular maintenance to save you money and maintain your health.
About The Author
Dave Johnson writes about air conditioning. He has a free report available to help you avoid costly mistakes with air conditioning. Subscribe for FREE at http://www.airconservicetips.com. You have full permission to reprint this article provided this box is kept unchanged.

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Discover What Home Automation Systems Are All About

by: Kelly Hunter

Do you remember George Jetson? His futuristic world gave a whole generation of cartoon viewers fantasies about having the ability to complete even the most tedious chores with only the push of a button. Well they don’t look like the Jetson’s Rosie, but robot housekeepers are actually already available. They are called home automation systems and look more like a fancy thermostat than a metal maid. A home automation system allows the homeowner to control all his home’s systems via the World Wide Web from virtually anywhere Internet access is available. An automation system harmonizes the air conditioner, heater, water and appliances.

Each subsystem is wired and connected to a hub, or a central processing unit, that ties them all together. Have you ever been rushing on your way to work and had a sinking feeling that you forgot to turn off the stove, or didn’t turn the answering machine on? If your home was automated, you could take care of those things as soon as you get to your computer and have absolutely no house related worries for the rest of the day. A home automation system can make your entertainment systems even more fun. No more missing your favorite television shows because you forgot to set the VCR. The system would allow you to start your recorder remotely so you don’t miss a minute. Imagine being able to adjust the volume on your stereo, for just the right mood music, with just the click of a button. You wouldn’t even have to walk away from your guests. Security is probably one of the first things people associate with home automation.

All the entrances and openings to your home can be wired so you will virtually have an electronic barrier against intruders around your home twenty-four hours a day. Like all the other subsystems in your home, it can be operated off-site, so you never have to worry about whether or not you locked everything up tight. Most automated systems are also armed with smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. If the barrier is breached in any way, or danger is detected, then it alerts the proper authorities. It could save your life, if you were injured and unable to do so yourself. Of course, there are fancier home automation options for the rich and famous. According to U.S. News, the Gates family home is full of them. That’s right; Bill Gates’ home contains about 52 miles of electronic wiring. Every flooring surface in the building is heated, including the driveway and sidewalks. Theoretically, Mr. Gates could start his favorite music, draw a bath and light his fireplace on his way home from the office.

You can visit http://www.home-automation-systems-guide.com to find more information on home automation. There is a place on the home automation spectrum for every household and every budget. Whether your priority is safety, convenience or just to show off, there are many options available to you. Who knows, the next step in technology evolution might mean hover cars for everyone!

About The Author
Kelly Hunter operates http://www.home-automation-systems-guide.com and writes about Home Automation Systems.

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CCTV Camera - Do-It-Yourself Installation Guide

by: Robert Moskal


Introduction:

This guide is written for those who do need video security and can't afford costly installation services, or if the CCTV installer is not available in your area - the later is more common than one could think. We will cover most common security equipment types, as it is virtually impossible to go over such a wide rang of different security cameras and recording/video processing equipment available on the market.

I assume anyone considering do-it-yourself CCTV installation has basic knowledge of wiring techniques and practices. I am not to be held responsible or liable for damages to the equipment due to mishandling or misuse. Remember; during the installation always pay attention to safety. Working at heights and using tools can be dangerous, please follow all safety practices. Lets jump right to it now.

Planning: First step of any camera installation is to plan camera and monitoring equipment locations. When planning for camera locations please take in consideration light condition, never install cameras in low light room pointing straight into the sunny area it will add glare to the picture, even if your camera has back light compensation it will not be enough. Use infrared cameras for very dark conditions and/or B/W cameras with as low LUX number as possible. I am not going to discuss proper equipment selection, as this was subject of my last article.

Selecting the best possible camera locations is not easy, and will directly impact the camera views. Besides light conditions, the distance to the monitoring object is equally important. There are many different types and focal lengths of lenses; your selection will depend on light condition and distance from the camera to the monitoring object. In small rooms around 500sq. ft. cameras with standard 3.6mm lens should be OK. Keep in mind that most bullet and board type of cameras come with 3.6mm lens, the greater the distance to the monitoring object the longer focal length of the lens will be needed. There is no ease way of judging lens selection, you can eider guess or buy professional lens selector tool.. Alternatively you can start with your lens selection and if needed get longer or shorter focal length lens later. Other option as far as lens selection goes, is to use variable focus lens, which is very versatile approach and takes the guess out of the lens selection process. For those who do not know what variable focus lens is, it's basically adjustable focal length lens that will allow to change the focal length within specified range, fore example: 2.6mm - 8mm or 5mm - 50mm.

To maximize cameras coverage and get the most out of the CCTV system for least amount of money minimize number of it by placing cameras in strategic places, unless complete area coverage is needed. Avoid overlapping camera views, do not install them with source of light directly in front of it and do not place infrared cameras pointing at each other to eliminate risk of overexposure. These are the most common mistakes that need to be avoided. After the initial camera locations are predetermined, lets look at cable placement. Make sure that it is actually possible and practical to run cable to each location, if running the cable to any camera location is for some reason impossible opt-out for alternate location.

Wiring: The most time consuming and important part of any camera installation is wiring. Plan your installation carefully to minimize cable lengths and insure good quality video signal. Never run cables alongside high power electrical lines, at least 12" spacing between video cable and power lines are recommended. Keep the cable lengths below 400ft and use good quality cable, most people take the cable for granted, but it is actually very important aspect of any installation. The CCTV system is only as good as its weakest component. I usually stick with RG59U with power Coleman cable (YES it is US made) sometimes called Siamese type cable. It is combo cable and will transmit video and power, as an alternative it is sometimes possible to use less expensive RG6 standard coax cable with separate run of 18/2AWG for power.

The Siamese cable is less bulky and easer to run, distribution power supply is recommended with this type of cable as power will be supplied from common place right next to monitor and recording equipment. Using Siamese cable makes for more clean and neat installation, as only one line is required for each camera. Running RG6 cable with separate run for power is the likely solution if power outlets are available near each locations. In this case individual plug in power supplies are used to power them with power cable running as separate and independent line to the camera. Both types of cables are available at dvrexperts. When running the cable it is good practice to leave couple of loops of extra cable at both camera and monitoring locations. This extra length of cable is needed if in the future monitoring or location will have to be moved slightly. After the cable is in place, the labor-intensive part of installation is over, now we can get to the fun part of installation.

Camera mounting: Most s come with mounting screws and bracket included, attach the bracket firmly and remember that in some cases different brackets than the ones supplied with the cameras could be needed.

Attach the camera to the bracket and adjust the position approximately at this time, we will come back to it later. Typical security camera is powered by 12VDC or 24VAC and power input type is screw or push terminals or 2.1mm plug. Power connection will differ for each type of power supply and input style. Most cameras are 12VDC, in this case it is important to observe polarity or you may damage the camera. The power cable has two conductors and in most cases it will be red or white and black cable. Use the red or white for positive and black for negative terminals. If it has screw or push terminals power input connect the cable directly observing polarity, if it is 2.1mm plug, a special 2.1MM Female DC Plug with Flying Leads have to be connected to the cable again keep attention to polarity. The 24VAC connection is very similar, with one major difference - polarity is not important.

Next step will involve some special tools and accessories. We will attempt to go over installation process of BNC crimp-on video connector, I will post video demonstration of BNC crimping techniques shortly so please check the web sites mentioned in this article often.

Steps: 1. Remove about 1/2-inch long outer jacket from the end of video cable exposing braid. 2. Slide the crimping barrel onto the cable with the larger diameter facing end of the cable. 3. Pull the braid backwards exposing the inner isolator material and remove 3/8-inch of it so you have now core conductor exposed. 4. The main part of BNC connector has a small hole on one side; push the exposed core conductor of the cable into that hole as far as it will go. 5. Push all the braid folded backwards in step 3 onto the BNC connector and spread the braid evenly around connector. 6. Push the crimping barrel onto the BNC connector all the way. 7. Using crimping tool, squeeze the crimping barrel onto the BNC connector, now the cable braid is compressed in between crimping barrel and BNC connector assuring secure connection.

BNC connector is on, lets hook it up now and repeat the steps for each camera, if you have purchased 16 camera system you may want to get some coffee first.

Monitor and recorder connection:

Cameras are on, its time to make final connections. I will focused on standard CCTV monitor, standalone DVR recorder and distribution power supply, as this is the most popular and likely solution for most CCTV installations.

First we have to install BNC connectors on this side as well - its time for that coffee again. It is good idea to make room for monitor and recorder now and setup some type of desk, shelf or rack to place all the equipment on.

We need the monitor and recorder in place so we can determine proper power supply location. Power supply should be mounted within couple of feet from the DVR video inputs. After power supply is secured separate the power conductors from the Siamese cable, and run it to power supply. Like we did with the cameras if 12VDC power is used, we need to watch the polarity, each terminal on the power supply is marked, so there should not be any doubt. Make sure the power supply is not plugged in to the power outlet yet.

Connect video cables to the DVR video in ports. We need one video cable to connect the DVR with the monitor, if you do not have one you may cut piece of Siamese cable separate the power conductors from it and install BNC connectors on both ends, you now have the cable. Connect the DVR monitor out port to monitor video in. We are almost ready to power up everything; there is only one more thing to take care before we do that.

We need to protect the equipment from power spikes by plugging it into power conditioner or better yet, buttery backup unit. If the installation location is experiencing frequent power outages, the backup unit is strongly recommended. To extend the backup time only plug the DVR and camera power supply to the backup unit and the monitor to regular power strip, this way if we do loose power for some time the DVR and cameras are still functioning as normal while monitor is off. Turning off monitor will not affect DVR and cameras in any way; it is actually good habit to turn the monitor of if not used to extend its life.

Power on and final adjustment: Yes... we are now ready to power it up for the first time, if this is your first installation it may be nerve-racking experience. Start with turning the cameras power supply on, turn the monitor on as well followed by DVR system. The stand-alone DVR, after self-test will show cameras or setup menu on first power up depending on your model.

To setup the DVR refer to the manual for proper settings. Go over each camera view to determine if the view is actually what you want, hardly ever it will be without additional readjustments. To properly and easily adjust the positions, the test monitor will be very handy if not essential tool. Go to each camera location and connect the test monitor to adjust the position to your preferences, if satisfied secure camera bracket adjustment screws - we will not go back to this camera anymore.

Conclusion: Congratulations! You have just completed your most likely, very first installation of CCTV system. Visit our store fore more information on surveillance cameras, DVR recorders, tools and accessories.



About The Author

Robert Moskal is Technical Department Manager at V2Comp, Inc., a major distributor of CCTV cameras and other surveillance equipment located in Chicago area. More information about new products can be accessed at http://www.amazingoutlet.com/

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